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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.